Luwak, Rice Paddies, and Holy Water

Roasting coffee beans

Samples of coffees (kopi) and teas (teh) from luwak plantation

Civet named Simone who eats coffee beans and poops out naturally decaffeinated remains to make my cup of luwak coffee. Luwak is spendy ($$) but only contains .5% caffeine and is very smooth and earthy and niiice to sip especially with this view

Tegalalang rice terrace and fungi friends

Hindu water cleansing ceremony at Pura Tirta Empul. People from any religious background are encouraged to bathe and pray under the spouts of natural spring water. This turned out to be a powerful experience for Carmen and I as we bathed (in borrowed sarongs) amongst a hundred other people from all over the world surrounded by incense, nibbling fish, offerings in banana leaves, and colorful floating flowers.

Categories: Travel

Storytime

Woke up at 2am to hike Mt. Batur. We decided not pay a guide to help us walk up the mountain and instead just looked at the tour’s itinerary to get our timing right. Got on our bikes around 3am and ended up FREEZING in a tank top and shorts at night/ wind chill/ higher mountain air. About 30 minutes in, Carmen’s bike was very low on gas. Being 3:30am, there was no petrol to be bought, so she hopped on my bike which still had a solid half tank. 15 minutes later a man on his own motorbike pulled up next to us and griego flag us down. The conversation went something like this:

“Hey ladies, you have a tour?”

“Uh no, we are just going by ourselves.”

“You hike mountain?”

“Yes”

“Okay. Come with me.”

“Oh, thanks but it’s okay we got it.”

“You have guide?”

“Uhhh yes.” (We didn’t, but we didn’t want to miss the sunrise and had to get going)

“Who?”

*we say some lie about the name of our hostel and try to drive away* also it’s this super foresty dark part of the road and there is NO one driving by

He stops us again. “Listen ladies, there is a ceremony and you can’t wear that” *gestures to our clothing*

“Really?”

“You need sarong”

“Okay thank you for that information. We will find something at the base.” We start to drive again. He follows us at a very close distance and is very adamant about us pulling over to this sketchy garage area to “give us a solution”. I am getting pretty frustrated and arguing with him from the back of the bike.

Him: “I have sarong at my house”

Me: “We are NOT going to your house”

Carmen: “We don’t trust you”

Him: “I don’t trust you”

Carmen: “No. We don’t trust YOU”

Him: “I’m not a criminal. I’m not a criminal. I’m security”

Me: “Security for what??” He had no badge of uni or anything “I’m sorry sir, but we are going to miss the sunrise.

We speed up and he pulls ahead trying to cut us off. Carmen is killing the driving with me on the back and he starts swerving to hit us with his bike. Carmen stops so we don’t crash. We stood really close to us and tries to touch Carmen’s arm.

“Please one quick kiss then you can go” he tries to grab my leg. I yell “DONT FUCKING TOUCH US” I kick at his bike and we drive away and thankfullly he doesn’t follow this time.

Carmen and I are freaking out a little, shaking because caffeine and REALLY cold. Then 4 more guys try to stop us. Turns out they just want us to pay them to guide us up the mountain but we don’t even have the cash they are asking for so we refuse everyone. No one else is really scary and thank god first guy didn’t have any weapons or friends. I had my hydro flask and the bike was insured so Carmen and I probably could have taken him if we really needed to.

Anyways, by the time we eventually got to the base, a new guy was following us, we were way late for sunrise and the roads were so bad we couldn’t navigate on our bike. We agreed to ditch Siri’s directions and follow the man behind us who knew the backroads. This really sketched us out, but we felt pretty sure he just wanted money, nothing scarier. We followed him for a while and when a truck was blocking a sandy little passage and we were freezing and a little exhausted and on a big adrenaline come down, Carmen and I decided to just turn around and head back into town.

We had a dance party as the sun rose next to a rice patty then drove to a coffee place that let us hang out and warm up around their stove.

Once the sun was up, we picked up Carmen’s bike, fueled up and we not back to our hostel to find food and take a nap. Got home around 10am mildly unsuccessful but happily knackered. Glad to have survived, feeling strong with my biker queen. Didn’t summit, but we learned a few more life lessons and gained a wacky story to remember.

Offering for good luck from lady on the road- tucked behind license plate

Categories: Travel

Uluwatu

Uluwatu has a mellow vibe that attracts a lot of interesting people. There are monkeys, waves, temples, delicious healthy food, and lots of smiles.

Beachbumming

Catching up on some journaling. Met some neat characters as Karma Backpacker house and thoroughly inspired. Someone crashed on a bike and had a serious head injury (3cm deep) one night when we all went out. This was a little shaking for everyone and a huge safety/ fragility of life reminder. So much support from locals and hostel and did end up bringing everyone together a little.

Raw nourishment

Categories: Travel

16/11

Rented motorbikes and rode across the island to see Pura Ulun Danu (floating Shaivite- followers worship Shiva as main god- temple in the North). There were a lot of students from West Java that came up to ask “Hello miss, may we practice our English with you?”. After a short script, “Thank youuu! May we take a picture with you?”

Getting a lot more confident on a bike and having a lot of fun weaving through chickens and taxis. The North had sooo many fewer tourists and we drove past countless green rice paddies, school children, fruit markets, and holy places.

Some Authentic warung lunch where the owner took more photos with us.

Stopped at Leki Leki waterfalls on the way home. Ended up hiking down through some THICK jungle and gnarly buggies but the water was TOTALLY incredible.

Here are some jungle PLANTS

Categories: Travel

Puri Garden Hostel

Carmen and I splurged ($16 per night) in this crazy hostel in Ubud. We had a talk about money/ consumerism/ treating yourself and decided to try to mindfully spend our money on special things that we will especially remember and enjoy. Less cheap garbage purchases and more savoringggg (yum)

This hostel was actually crazy though.

Pool, free yoga, free breakfast, extravagant showers, movie night, and amazing bunks with curtains, duvets, lights, outlets. Really fun to treat ourselves but definitely out of our element of scrappy smelly travel buddies.

Ft. Italian date night

p.s. hostels/ hotels like these are the largest culprits of cultural appropriation fyi. Everything is a learning experience man

Categories: Travel

Uluwatu Temple

Met Reece (Aus) from awesome hostel in Uluwatu. We rented motorbikes with helmetttts and went to the gigantic palace-esque Uluwatu Temple. It takes about thirty minutes to walk through and we watched the sunset over the cliff on which it is built. The temple is the conjunction of Vishnu, Shiva, and Brahma making it one of the most powerful Hindu holy places. There are monkeys in a little forest entryway and they did not hesitate to steal water bottles, wallets, and sunglasses. I made the mistake of making eye contact and this little dude came over and started hissing and climbing up my pants. Kind of terrifying and adorable. We just hissed back and luckily made it through the forest without getting chomped on. The monkeys are also said to be a protection against bad energy so I’m not entirely sure what that says about me.

Categories: Travel

WE FOUND THAI FOOD

GOOD THAI FOOD

IT WAS SO GOOD.

Craving this meal for 2 months. Hygge homesick hot hot spicy food.

Also I’m still just stoked that red curry is less than $3 US here (@ boujee Bend food *eyeroll* economics *eyeroll* money *spring roll* I mean eyeroll)

Categories: Travel

Nusa Penida

Took a fast boat (40 minutes) to nearby island, Nusa Penida.

Penida is still technically part of Bali, however it’s population is much smaller and the pace of life is very wake-up-with-sunrise-and-rooster-crow and be-home-by-dark. Everyone was insanely friendly. Carmen and I got breakfast and the waiter ended up bringing us hot water and bandaids for our blisters/ scrapes.

We met Andy from NZ (NOT Australia), back at the other hostel in Kuta and he helped us arrange tickets/ plan the trip. We ended up renting motor bikes and exploring the island and the actual life changing Kelingking Beach.

Classic photo overlooking Kelingking- called “the T-Rex”. Getting down to the actual beach was an insane cliff decent with some bamboo handrails. Totally worth the death wish (until we had to climb back up) because the white sand and blue blue blue ocean was a dream. I bought a coconut and Carmen, Andy, and I swam for a few hours. The waves are massive crashers with a pretty strong current, but if you hit them at the right time you get somersaulted in the perfect, spiraling barrel and it’s more fun than any amusement park.

Dripping sweat after getting back up the cliff, we sat and watched the sunset and shared some music with local tour guides from the island. One guy really liked “Sway” by Rosemary Clooney so there was also some amateur karaoke. MARVelous DaY

The next morning Andy locked himself in the bathroom with Bali Belly and C and I explored Crystal Bay.

  • We pretty much spent the day reading and laying in the sun until we caught our return boat home around 5. Turns out the tickets we had did not actually apply to the 5pm boat and the company we booked them through was nowhere to be found. In order to not get stuck for another night (could’ve been a blessing. It’s like Calypso’s island), we bought tickets with another company and had to pay for a Grab back to the Captain Goose to get our bags and head to Uluwatu.
  • Categories: Travel

    Kuta, Bali

    We landed in Bali Wednesday night and checked into a hostel called Captain Goose. C Goose is a quick walk’s distance between the Beachwalk (kuta beach and giant malls) and the main club/ bar area- like Bali Times Square with lights and screens etc. Guidebooks tend to say you will either love Kuta, or hate it. I don’t believe the world is that black and white and there were some really neat parts as well as things that made me gag in my mouth a little.

    Really neat parts:

    -everyone here is insanely friendly. Whether they are trying to sell you stuff or not, they go out of their way to smile, bow, ask about your general well-being, and offer to help in whatever way they can.

    -the oceaaaaaaaaan. Touristy as heck but lil waves perfect for swimming, surfing, and radiantly blue and sparkly.

    -food. Tons of vegetarian options because Hinduism is the most prominent religion in Bali. Delicious, spicy, super cheap, ridiculous amounts of fresh fruit and fantastic flavors and smells. We eat at local places called “Warung” which literally means cheap. Sometimes it will be “Warung Nasi” (cheap rice shop) or “Warung Ayam” (cheap chicken shop).

    -incense constantly burning in shrines and offerings around the city. Mixes sweetly with the grunge of motorbike fumes, dog pee, cigarettes, rotting mangoes

    -architecture. The city is dotted with gorgeous stone carvings and temples with intricate roofs, gates, and pillars.

    -easy to navigate/ semi-walkable, bustling streets

    Things that made me gag in my mouth a little:

    children tugging on shirt “me hungry” “please miss give me money please miss I am hungry”

    -tourism. I completely understand that I am also here on a tourist visa and I am in no way distinguishing myself from this industry, however 80% of Bali’s economy relies on tourism and Kuta is the pinnacle (this word looks like pineapple). There are white people. Everywhere. And typically smaller, bright Balinese faces waiting for direction on how to serve. If they aren’t waiting, they are forcefully trying to sell sunglasses or rent you a motorbike in exchange for your passport- this seems like the worst idea ever to me as passport fraud is extremely prevalent. Depending on where you are from, your passport can sell for hundreds of dollars (US) on the black market.

    Tourists are from all over the world, but Aussies tend to run the show as one round trip ticket is about 200 US and they can last in Bali for about two weeks on a couple Aussie bucks no prob.

    Other typical tourists include:

    -models (female and male). Often tan babes that only eat fruit and take pictures in front of every building.

    -backpackers: “we like to do yoga on the beach” “I came to Indonesia because of the deep spiritual energy” “Yeah I don’t really remember what I did last night, but I mean I woke up in my hostel bed” “You know mate, kuta is like the little cousin of Southern Thailand” “yeah, but have you even been to Vietnam” “wait how many months are you traveling?” “How many countries have you been to?”

    -occasionally families on vacation that tend to bring their kids to Asia and then buy them snorkel gear and Starbucks or Dunkin Donuts

    -old couples that are just happy the kids are out and trying to go to paradise without breaking the bank. These people are most likely to get ripped off because they probably take taxis everywhere and aren’t tech savvy enough to have Grab or Gojek (indo versions of Uber that allow you to pay in cash and are usually a fraction of the price of a taxi or hired driver).

    Of course, the cheapest option is renting your own motorbike for around $4-5 US per day, but accidents are frequent and can be extremely messy esp. due to an island wide shortage of helmets. People also drive on the left side of the road, and while I have to say the streets of South America felt a little more reckless, Bali isn’t safe by US standards whatsoever (e.g. what are seatbelts? Use your horn to indicate you are passing someone. Turn signals? Never heard of her. Inner city streets are approx side enough for two people with long arms to hold hands. Drunk driving is not uncommon. Don’t hit that dog- side note: not sure if I’ve seen one stray that doesn’t have giant, swinging testicles still attached.)

    ***

    Carm and I also experienced some gnarly jetlag the first two nights as our 2-day travel schedule was a little rough on the ole circadians, so we were not incredibly productive. We did, however, have a lovely time wandering the city, smacking flies off of each other’s back, meeting adorable vendors and very polite waiters, SWIMMING in the cleansing waters of the Indian Ocean (this term might not be PC anymore I apologize if not, I think it depends on where you are in the world), drinking fruit juice, and soaking in the incredible smells, sights, and sensations of a completely different and exciting culture.

    P.s. so not ready to stop speaking Spanish so Carm and I still use it infrequently, esp. when we are trying to have private conversations

    P.p.s. One month is not enough time to learn Bahasa especially because English is even more common than Indonesian languages. Regardless the vocab is really easy to pick up and sentence structure is simple. So if you say a couple words: Saya suka kucing putih (I like white cats), the message usually gets across

    Categories: Travel

    Tokyo airport has bidets

    General apology to passengers on flight DL67 Tokyo to Singapore. I have many talents but dairy is it one of them.

    Categories: Travel

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